Essential oils can be defined in two ways: their scientific
explanation is that many plants contain high concentrations of volatile oils,
which give plants their distinctive flavour and aromas. These aromatic
essential of volatile oils are made up from a wide variety of different
chemical constituents. A single essential oil may contain as many as fifty
individual ingredients, including substances such as phenol, carvacrol, linalol,
and geraniol. Aroma therapists, who use essential oils for therapeutic massage,
are more likely to adopt a less clinical approach when it comes to defining
essential oils. They often describe them as the ‘life force’ or ‘soul’ of the
plant and believe that each essential oil has different characteristics and
uses. Whether you take the more pragmatic and analytical approach, or prefer to
follow the folklore, there is no doubt that essential oils can be extremely
useful in caring for the body and encouraging well-being.
Essential oils can be extracted from plants in two main ways
- by using either steam or solvent distillation. Steam distillation involves
placing the plant material in a flask, heating to a high temperature and
collecting the steam. As the steam cools and turns back into water, the
essential oil from the plant floats to the surface where it can be collected.
Steam distillation is the best method for extracting pure essential oils and
most of the expensive varieties are extracted this way. The other method of
solvent extraction is faster and involves placing the plant material in a flask
and mixing with a chemical solvent such as hexane. The mixture is stirred and
heated to release the essential oils from the plant before the solvent is
evaporated away. Solvent extraction is common in the perfume industry where
natural footwear fragrances are still used by some of the more expensive
scents. However, it is not the best method for producing essential oils for
skincare as traces of the solvent are invariably left behind in the oil.
Technically, anything that has been produced by solvent
extraction should be called ‘absolute’ and not ‘essential’ oil. Common examples
of these include rose absolute of jasmine absolute, which are extremely rare to
find as essential oils made by steam distillation. The main problem when buying
essential oils is knowing exacyly what is inside the bottle. Always look for
the words ‘pure essential oil’, on the label, which mean that the oil has not
been diluted with a cheaper vegetable oil before bottling. Some oils are sold
as ‘aromatherapy oils’ or ‘fragrance oils’ and should not be confused with
genuine, highly concentrated essential oils. A good – quality essential oil
will last long time if kept cool and dark, and most oils have many health and
beauty uses. All essential oils are naturally antiseptic and many are naturally
antibiotic. Some even help to boost the immune system and fight off bacterial, viral,
and fungal infections.
Aromatherapy and
essential oils
Aromatherapy is the art of using these essential oils mixed
in a base or ‘carrier’ oil, such as almond or grape seed oil, combined with
massage. Aromatherapy works by releasing the aroma of these oils into the
atmosphere where they are taken up by the nerve endings in the nose and relayed
to the brain. Here they can have a powerful effect on mood, emotions, and
mental state. Essential or volatile oils also have a very small molecular
structure enabling them to slip through the surface of the skin and end up in
the blood stream. This is why the oils used on the skin in massage can be so
effective in treating not oily skin complaints but also disorders as diverse as
hormonal problems and cellulite. Because essential oils end up circulating in
the bloodstream it is wise to use caution if using them during pregnancy.
Stimulating herb and spice oils should be avoided and replaced with gentler
oils such as chamomile, sandalwood, geranium, and lemon. While small amounts of
any oil are quite safe, for regular use it is best to consult a professional
aroma therapist for personal advice during pregnancy.
Pregnant or not, all essential oils are highly concentrated
an should only ever be used in small quantities and always diluted either in a
carrier oil or cream, or diffused in a warm bath. The only exceptions to this
rule are when using lavender oil neat on burns, or dabbing small amounts of tea
tree oil on the spots and pimples.
Essential oils to
avoid during pregnancy
Aniseed, bay, basil, cassia, clary sage, cedar wood, clove,
coriander, cinnamon, cypress, eucalyptus, hyssop, juniper, lemongrass, nutmeg,
sage, savoury, thyme, marjoram (including sweet marjoram), myrrh, pennyroyal,
pine, rosemary, sage, tansy, tea tree, wintergreen and wormwood.
Essential oils are recommended by many aroma therapists
during pregnancy.
Citrus oils (e.g. mandarin, tangerine, bergamot and lemon),
sandalwood, neroli, jasmine, geranium and chamomile. After the first three
months, lavender rose and Melissa may also be used in moderation.